On car when bought - CAGS Skip Shift Eliminator
The previous owner also had this little gadget installed on the car. It is a very simple bugger, you just unhook a wire going into the transmission, plug this into it and tie-wrap it to the tranny and your done! No more stupid forced 1 to 4 shifts!

3/01 - Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmission Mount
I picked this up as my first mod, not really for any good reason, I actually bought it off ebay because I thought it was going really cheap. I figured I buy it for the heck of it since it was so cheap, well it turns out it wasn't really that cheap... but I bought it anyway and put it on the car. The shifter felt more firm for sure, there was a little more vibration and sound transmission but not bad at all.

3/01 - Engine Oil, Transmission Fluid, Rear Fluid Change
Since I didn't know if the Trans or Rear fluid had ever been changed in the car's 6 years of life I figured I do it all when I changed my oil. I used Mobil 1 10w-30 Engine Oil . I had heard a lot of people using Honda ATF for the T56 and liking it a lot, so I gave it a try in mine. I like it, after the fluid change shifts were a lot easier, less 'notchy.' I changed the rear fluid with Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil and added the GM Limited Slip Additive as recommended.

4/01 - Throttle Body Bypass
I did this mod next, hey it only costs about $5.00, so I figured it was definitely worth the time to do. It took a couple of hours going slow. Most of which was fighting the stupid inlet hose. I didn't remove the throttle body, so getting leverage on this hose was quite difficult. Check out my Install Guide for this mod.

4/01 - 4" Custom PVC Cold Air Intake
Instead of spending $180-$200 on a CAI I decided to make my own! The K&N Filter was $30 and the PVC and stuff was another $15 or so. So for $45 I have a CAI! The filter and tubing is actually bigger than the one that comes with the FIPK, so I figured why waste money! Check out my Tips on the Install and a link to the page that I used to make it. Sorry I don't know gains I got from this mod as I didn't run it at the track before I installing it.

4/01 - B&M Ripper Shifter
The stock shifter just plain sucks! It is spongy and has very long throws. This is a very worthwhile mods for M6 guys. I think it should be the next thing done after CAI and a Catback. The throws are very short and it feels VERY 'solid' when you are shifting. It really is a night and day difference. I picked this up barely used on Ebay for a good price. Check out my Ripper Shifter Install Guide

5/01 - 3" Flowtech Exhaust Cutout
With my Flowmaster just not loud enough anymore I decided to get a cutout to dump the exhaust before the muffler. I ordered a pair of them from Jegs (only sold in pairs) and sold the other one to a cz28.com board member. I had a muffler shop install it right before the Intermediate pipe bends to go over the rear axle. I love the sound! It isn't as 'tuned' as with the Flowmaster, but I like it. It is very loud, and it rattles the interior some, but I still like it! I haven't capped it since I put it on!

8/01 - 97+ Console
As you know the 93-96 Console sucks! The only cupholder is directly behind the shifter, so if your an M6 guy, you spill your soda every 2, 4, & 6 shifts and if you need to shift hard forget it! Soda is in the way! The compartment door is also a major PIA. You have to lift it toward the back of the car, which is a very awkward thing to do while sitting in the driver's seat...and it doesn't support itself, so you need two hands to get something out of it! I found a used console on ebay and it was going for real cheap, so I put a stupid bid in and I actually won it! I wasn't planning on buying one, but it went for so cheap I couldn't pass it up. I would've done this mod eventually, but it wasn't at the top of my list. Anyways, I don't regret it at all... I love the new console. It has three additional cupholders in useful locations and a door that opens to the side and supports itself. It installed pretty easy, there was one little plastic 'nipple' that had to be removed, but it took only a minute to do. There is a gap b/t the bottom of the radio and the top of the console, but I eventually will fill it with something... just haven't had time to fool with it yet!

8/01 - Granatelli Motorsports Shock Tower Brace
Granatelli had some Shock Tower Braces on sale for an unbeatable price so I picked one up. It was easy to install... just jack up the front end of the car to take the load off the suspension. Then just take the two nuts off of each side of the studs. Slide the STB on and put the nuts back on. Lower the car and test drive to feel the difference! It feels better in the turns and seems to reduce the rattles in the dash.

8/01 - Chrome Z28 Emblems and Rear C-A-M-A-R-O Fillins
The black Z28 emblems for some reason just don't stand out on my car! I bought these foil decals... made of vinyl decal material that simply lay ontop of your existing emblems. They were cheap and they look great. Every person I have talked to about them think they are actual chrome replacements and can't believe that they are just decals. I get a lot of complements. I also got the letters to fillin the C-A-M-A-R-O in the rear valence. These letters are made from the same material. I got both from Norm Salas in Florida. He is very inexpensive and gets them shipped quickly. Check out his website for ordering info.

9/01 - Granatelli Motorsports Subframe Connectors
I love a good handling car so I decided to put some money into suspension. I originally called up Muscle Motors because I heard they had some Granatelli Motorsports Subframe Connectors on special. They also informed me of some Lower Control Arms and a Panhard Rod they had on special as well. I decided I'd just get it all at once and clenched me teeth as I put out a big chunk of change for them! I actually STILL have not put the subframe connectors on yet! My dad can weld them on... but we've both been so busy and when we both have time he always has anther car in the shop... so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!........... After getting the LCA's and PHR in the suspension felt a lot more solid. When accelerating out of a turn it hooks up a lot better with less 'insecure' feeling.

9/01 - Granatelli Motorsports Lower Control Arms
See Above

9/01 - Mac Panhard Rod
See Above

9/01 - 98SS 17x9 Rims & 275/40/ZR17 BF Goodrich Comp TA Tires
I got a great deal on these rims from Chuck in Washington D.C. I wasn't really looking for rims, but he gave me a deal I couldn't pass up. I wanted new rims sure, but wasn't planning on spending on those yet. The handling of the car was dramatically increased with the 17" wheels and 275 tires. This was a GREAT mod. They look great and handle too!

9/01 - Front End Alignment
My front end needed an alignment when I got the car, but I was too lazy (and cheap!!) to get one. When I got the new rims and tires I definitely knew I should get one. The tires only had about 2k on them, so I did not want to wear them irregularly like my old tires were. After it was done it was so nice to drive! No more holding the steering wheel straight from pulling right!!!!!

10/01 - SS Hood - Reproduction Fiberglass
Anther thing I wasn't planning on buying yet! I found of set of polished SS rims for sale just down the road from my house and told my buddy about them. He was freshly jealous from my new SS wheels so he splurged and put up the cash for them. Same deal... SS Rims and Comp TA's. We went over and looked at them and met the owner. 'Rich' ended up having the same car as me... Black 94Z only an automatic. He was selling a bunch of stuff and turning the car into more of a race car... so he was getting rid of those wheels and the SS hood. He asked me if I wanted one, and after talking a while he gave me a great deal on it... and since we both had black cars I didn't need to get it painted... so I went ahead and got it! Rich is a great guy and we've talked and met up ever since. He is 'anotherzfan' on camaroz28.com. He is currently building a stroker w/ nitrous... going to be one heck of a car! Thanks Rich!

10/01 - Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors
Well my brakes were squealing from the indicators that my rear brake pads were low. I got a set of pads and followed the Haynes book and used common sense to get the job done. It was pretty easy actually. Just unbolt the caliper off the axle and hang it from a wire as to not stress the brake hoses. Take the cap off the brake master cylinder. Pop out the old brake pads, then using a big clamp, compress the piston back into the caliper. It doesn't pop out when you take the old pads out, but since the new pads are thicker you have to compress the piston back into the caliper to make room for the added pad surface. Do one side from start to finish at a time because if you take both sides off, when you compress the piston in the one it will create pressure in the system and squeeze the other piston and since there won't be anything(rotor) to oppose it, it will screw it up. So anyways, I didn't lose any fluid while doing this, but I've heard that sometimes it will come out when you compress the piston. Brake fluid will eat paint, so carefully place a rag around the master cylinder to catch any fluid that might come out. Take the rotors to a garage to get cut if you so desire. After the piston is compressed enough to get the pads in with enough clearance to get them around the rotor, slide them back on and put the bolts back in. Your done that side! Now just do the same to the other side, and lastly put the cap on the master cylinder back on. All done! Now I actually had a little problem doing mine. I was doing it at a buddy's garage and when I went to turn the rotors on his brake machine... I screwed one up! I've only turned a few rotors, and although I though I knew what I was doing I screwed it up. I turned it and it was all rough, I tried again and again but it never got smooth. So then I was like 'Crap! Now I have to spend major $$ on new rotors!' I called up Pep Boys, and they wanted like $60 or $70 a piece. I then called up NAPA and they said they had some for like $25 or $30 a piece. I was skeptical, but the salesman assured me that he's never had anyone come back with problems, and given that I was very broke I went ahead and got the NAPA ones. I compared them to the old ones and they looked very similiar... so I put them on. I haven't had a lick of trouble with them, so I guess they are okay. Not bad for around $50! I don't know if I'd risk it on the front since they do most of the braking, but the rears should be fine.

11/01 - LT1 Edit PCM Programmer
Wanting to down the road to Do Cam & Roller Rockers as well as LT's and needing to take care of some miscellaneous computer things I looked into LT1 Edit. There was a GP running on it and I figured I mine as well get it now. So far I have: Lowered fan activation temps, removed my speed limiter, disabled CAGS - now the light doesn't come on.

11/01 - TTS Datamaster Logging Scanner
I also picked up TTS Datamaster which is a logging scanner that you use with a laptop. I haven't used it much, but it is really neat and will definitely come in handy when I go to tune w/ Cam & Headers, and in the event that I get a DTC sometime.

12/01 - 150 MPH Speedo
Since my car came from the factory equipped with non-Z rated touring tires, my car has the 110 MPH Speedo and the governor that limits max speed to around 108 MPH. I found a used 150 Guage Cluster on Ebay with the same mileage as my car had at the time, so I snatched it up.

12/01 - White Face/Indiglo Guages
I figured while I had the cluster out of the car I mine as well add some white faced guages to it then. I checked out my options and ended up going with a set of white faced / indiglo guages that are sold on ebay. Check out Pics and Info about the Overlay.

1/02 - Thick Spoke C5 Rims - 18's all the way around
After coming to the realization that EVERYONE has SS wheels I decided that I wanted something a little different. I was also sick of people seeing my hood and wheels and then seeing my Z28 emblems, and saying 'Oh, it isn't an SS' I looked around and decided that some Thick Spoke C5 Rims would look clean, not too aftermarkety, and not break the bank. I decided to go with 18's on all corners it looks cooler... and now I can rotate tires. The car seems to ride slightly rougher than with the 17's, but I expected that with the shorter sidewalls. It definitely feels great in the turns though! Corners much more positively... the 16" to 17" jump was great... now even better!

1/02 - Kuhmo ECTA Supra 712 275/35/ZR18's
I went with the Kuhmo tires since they were very reasonably priced and seemed to get great reviews from those who have tried them. I am pleased with them so far, but I've only had them for a couple of weeks, so time will tell! As a first impression of wet weather driving tonight... I was impressed! I got on it a couple of times to see how easy it would break loose and they seemed to stick better than the BFG Comp TA's.

1/02 - Gutted Cat
Bored one night with nothing good to do, I acked up the car and disconnected the cat from the I-pipe to see what it looked like inside. I was carrying a really long screwdriver by the car and I tripped and accidentally jabbed all the guts out of the cat. Not wanting to spend the money on a new one I just bolted it back up and let it be. The car is quite a bit louder, not horribly louder, quieter than the cutout... kind of in between the Flowmaster and the cutout. It does have a different tone to it... I like it.

4/02 - Mac High Flow Y-Pipe and Random Tech High Flow Cat/Offroad Pipe
My buddy Rich (whom I got the hood from) was getting rid of his Y-pipe in lieu of his Hooker Long Tube purchase, so I picked it up from him. I was a direct bolt-in replacement... right up to the stock manifolds. I figured since headers were a more distance future project that I'd like that it would be worth it to stick this on until I can get the funds up for the real deal. I also picked up a Random Tech High Flow Cat to go with it. The y-pipe also came with a offroad pipe... but with emissions testing coming up at the end of the summer I figured I'd get the cat too. It's a pretty nice setup... I got the cat used, and it already had flanges welded in to bolt up to a Mac Y-pipe (it was on a car with Mac headers... but the Y-pipe hookup is the same as mine. So it just bolts right up between the Y-pipe and the I-pipe. If I don't want to run the cat I can bolt up the offroad pipe in place of the cat. (for those that might be wondering an offroad pipe is simply a straight pipe that goes in place of the cat. It is deemed 'offroad' simply because of its obvious illegality - 'offroad use only'). I grew unhappy of the 'tinny' sound of the gutted cat, and this setup solved everything. It is still loud, is a bit deeper, and it is legal (with the cat on). I am very happy with it. It is quieter in the interior than the stock Y-pipe, gutted cat, and flowmaster muffler... but all my friends say it is just as loud outside. I still haven't gotten a chance to try it with the offroad pipe. The day I did the swap the garage was occupied, so I did the work in the driveway, and as I was finishing up a thunderstorm was rolling in... so I quick got the cat on... I actually tried to get the offroad pipe on first but it gave me some trouble... and the cat went right in, so I bolted it up quickly dropped the car cleaned up, and took the car for a test drive right when it started raining. In a couple weeks I'm gonna crawl under and check all the nuts for tightness and I'll probably pop the offroad pipe in to see what it sounds like!